Tuesday, April 18, 2017

England and Wales: September 23 - October 25 2016



Another catchup post.  This one is a recap of our trip to England and Wales last fall.  

Our trip started with a drive to Boston.  We had made arrangements for a reverse Park n' Fly with a hotel near Logan.  We got a month of parking and a hotel room the night we returned for a lot less than it would have cost just to park the car at the airport.  We flew Norwegian Air, which is considered a budget airline.  The fare was much cheaper than any other airline we found, but the experience was not particularly budget.  We flew a very modern Dreamliner and had bulk head seats in both directions.  About as good as it gets without upgrading to business or first class.  The only down side is that they fly in to Gatwick rather than Heathrow, so the ride to town is longer.

We left Boston the evening of Sept 22 and arrived in London on the morning of the 23rd. Our son Drew flew from Virginia into Heathrow and met us when we arrived at the Cleveland Hotel near Paddington Station.  We spent a wonderful long weekend, enjoying Drew's company, and visiting the sites in London.  Highlights include the British Museum, Little Venice and a canal boat ride to Camden Locks, Greenwich, the Churchill War Rooms,  Westminster Abbey, the Tower of London, and visiting a variety of pubs. 
Brett and Drew on our first pub visit in London

Brett and Drew on the Cutty Sark
London

Carved doors at the Camden Horse Market
London

Camden Horse Market
London

Camden Horse Market
London

Canal boats in Little Venice
London

Celina and Drew

Westminster Abbey

Celina, Drew and Big Ben

Tower Bridge

Tower of London


Dragon made of armor and weapons at the Tower of London

On Tuesday, Sep 27th, it was time for Drew to head home and for us to depart London for the rest of our trip.  We walked to Paddington Station, saw Drew off on to the Heathrow Express and then headed to Kings Cross Station to catch our train north to York.  Once there we picked up the rental car we would use for the rest of the trip. We spent a few hours walking around York and then drove to our home for the next 3 nights  - the Durham Ox in Crayke, near the North Yorkshire Moors.  In the time we were there, we visited Byland Abbey, Helmsley Castle, Rievaulx Abbey, as well as the seacoast towns of Whitby and Staithes.  Many of these properties were managed by English Heritage.  We decided to become members of English Heritage which gave us free admissions to all of their properties as well as discounts to some other properties.  If you will be visiting England and expect to visit lots of historic properties, I suggest you look in to English Heritage membership.  
Views from the top of the city wall
York, England

York Minster
York, England


Bookbinders used to be located on this street
York, England

Public piano
York, England

Towers of York Minster
York, England


Rievaulx Abbey
North Yorkshire

Rievaulx Abbey
North Yorkshire

Rievaulx Abbey
North Yorkshire

Helmsley 

Helmsley Castle
North Yorkshire

Helmsley Castle
North Yorkshire


Byland Abbey
North Yorkshire

Byland Abbey
North Yorkshire


Heather in the North Yorkshire Moors

North Yorkshire Moors

Staithes
North Yorkshire

Staithes
North Yorkshire

Staithes
North Yorkshire

Church Road
Whitby, North Yorkshire

Whitby
North Yorkshire

Whitby Abbey

View of Whitby from the Abbey

Whitby Abbey

Whitby Abbey

Fields next to Whitby Abbey
St. Cuthbert's Church
Crayke

The Durham Ox
Crayke, North Yorkshire

Main street in Crayke
North Yorkshire

Lavender Cottage (on the right) at The Durham Ox
Crayke, North Yorkshire

Sep 30 we left Crayke and headed to Masham in the Yorkshire Dales for the next 3 nights. Enroute we visited Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal Gardens.  Masham is home to 2 Yorkshire breweries - Theakstons and Black Sheep - both of which are owned by members of the Theakston family.  We toured both breweries and definitely preferred the more traditional Theakstons.  Black Sheep was a bit too polished for us.  While in Masham, we also visited Bolton Castle and Aysgarth Falls.
Fountains Abbey
Yorkshire Dales

Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal Gardens
Yorkshire Dales

St. Mary's at Studley Royal Gardens

Holiday Cottage at Studley Royal Gardens

Studley Royal Gardens

Fountains Abbey


Aysgarth Falls
Yorkshire Dales

Bolton Castle
Yorkshire Dales

Interior of chapel at Bolton Castle


View from Bolton Castle

Brett waiting for our tour at Theakstons  Brewery
Masham, Yorkshire

Theakston Brewery
Masham


Pub at Theakston Brewery
Masham

Barrel room at Theakston
Masham

From Masham, we headed north toward Hadrian's wall.  We visited sites along the wall - Chesters Fort, Housesteads Roman Fort, Temple of Mithras before stopping for the night a Lord Crewe Arms in Blanchland. The Lord Crewe was a wonderful place - it was originally and abbey built in the 1100's . We wished we had stayed longer than 1 night.
Lord Crewes Arms
Blanchland


Angel Inn at Lord Crewe Arms
Blanchland

Hadrian's Wall
Chester's Roman Fort


Chester's Roman Fort

Housesteads Roman Fort

From Blanchland, we headed west toward the Lake District.  Along the way we stopped to visit Lanercrost Priory, Carlisle Castle, and Castlerigg Stone Circle.   We had some difficulty when leaving Castlerigg.  We met a large truck along a single track road and it turned out there was not enough room for the both of us!  Despite pulling as far off the road as possible, folding in our sideview mirrors, and having assistance from another driver, the truck ended up scratching the mirror as he went by.  English country roads are definitely an adventure!
Castlerigg Stone Circle

We spent 3 nights at the Britannia Inn in Elterwater.  Our first impressions of the Inn were not great, but it ended up being our favorite stop of the trip.   We met several couples also staying at the Inn and spent some delightful time visiting over dinner and in the pub.  The Lake District is a wonderful place if you like to walk.  We spent our two full days there exploring the area on foot.  The scenery is beautiful and it is wonderful to be able to walk, stop for lunch, walk a little more and stop for a pint, and then return to the inn where you meet friends for a pint and then dinner.  This is an area we would definitely like to visit again.

Views while walking in the Lake District
Elterwater

Chapel Stile
Lake District

Out for a walk in Elterwater

Views while walking in Elterwater

Colorful sheep
Elterwater

Walking in the Fells in Elterwater

Walking in the Fells in Elterwater

Walking in the Fells in Elterwater



Celina and the steps over a stone wall along the public walkway
Elterwater

Britannia Inn
Elterwater


From the Lake District, we headed for Caernarfon, Wales where we spent 3 nights.  Enroute we stopped in Chester, which is in England just before crossing the border to Wales.  While in Caernarfon we visited the castle in town, a local brewery where we met a wonderful character name Gareth, and took a day trip to the Snowdonia Mountains where we visited the National Slate Museum.
Chester Cathedral

Victoria clock
Chester, England

Half-timbered building
Chester, England

Caernarfon Castle
Wales

Caernarfon Castle decorated for Remembrance Day (Nov 11)
Wales


Black Boy Inn
Caernarfon, Wales

Snowdonia Mountains
Wales

Dolbadarn Castle
Snowdonia, Wales

View from Dolbadarn Castle

Snowdonia, Wales

National Slate Museum
Wales

Casting floor
National Slate Museum

From Caernarfon we headed south to Pembrokeshire where we spent 2 nights at the Stackpole Inn.   While there we visited Pembroke Castle, walked around Stackpole Estate, visited the medieval chapel of St Govan, and took a walk on the seaside cliffs overlooking Barafundle Bay.


Cows along the seaside walk to Barafundle Bay
Pembrokeshire, Wales

Barafundle Bay
Pembrokeshire, Wales


St. Govans Chapel
Pembrokeshire, Wales

The beach at Stackpole Estates
Pembrokeshire, Wales

Pembroke Castle
Pembrokeshire, Wales

View of Pembroke from the Castle
Pembrokeshire, Wales

Pembroke Castle
Pembrokeshire, Wales


Stackpole Inn
Pembrokeshire, Wales

We then bid farewell to Wales and headed east to spend the next 4 nights at the Lamb Inn in Burford - in the Cotswolds.  Along the way we stopped in Cheltenham to visit the museum which has a wonderful collection of Arts & Crafts furniture.  While in the Cotswolds we took day trips to Oxford, Blenheim Palace (birthplace of Winston Churchill), and a driving tour through Bibury, Upper and Lower Slaughter.
Blenheim Palace
Oxfordshire, England

Celina in the gardens
Blenheim Palace


Gardens at Blenheim Palace


Lamb Inn - the Cotswolds
Burford, England


Interior - St. John the Baptist Church
Burford, England

St. John the Baptist Church
Burford, England


Upper Slaughter
Oxfordshire, England

Upper Slaughter
Oxfordshire, England

Mill Shop in Lower Slaughter
Oxfordshire, England

Arlington Row
Bibury, Oxfordshire

Bibury
Oxfordshire, England


Swans in the River Coln
Bibury, Oxfordshire
Swans
Bibury, Oxfordshire

Gardens at Oxford University

Dining Hall in Exeter College
Oxford University

Radcliffe Camera
Oxford University

Partridges for sale at the market
Oxford, England

From the Cotswolds we headed south to the coast of Cornwall.  We spent the next 3 nights at the Old Ferry Inn in Bodinnick.  We took a day trip to visit Restormel Castle and then Pendennis Castle near Falmouth.  We also spent a day exploring Fowey, Polruan, and Bodinnick via foot and ferry.  
The Old Ferry Inn
Bodinnick, Cornwall


Ferry from Bodinnick to Fowey
Cornwall

View from our room in the Old Ferry Inn
Bodinnick

A small taste of the many single track roads we drove

Pendennis Castle
Falmouth, England


View from Pendennis Castle
Falmouth


View of St. Mawes from Pendennis
Falmouth

Restormel Castle
Cornwall, England

Restormel Castle
Cornwall, England


Polruan
Cornwall, England

St. Catherines Castle and Menabilly Lighthouse
Fowey, Cornwall

Fowey
Cornwall, England


Punche's Cross and St Saviours Poin
Polruan, Cornwall

St. Catherines Castle
Fowey, Cornwall


Polruan
Cornwall, England


Map of Bodinnick, Fowey and Polruan 
View of Polruan (left) and Fowey (right)
taken from Bodinnick along the Hall Walk


Lantelgos-by-Fowey
along the Hall Walk


From Cornwall we headed east along the coast to Dartmouth in Devon.  Along the way we stopped in Plymouth where the Mayflower began its journey to America.  We spent 2 nights at the Bayard Cove Inn in Dartmouth.  We spent a fun day exploring Dartmouth and Kingswear by foot and ferry.

The starting point of the Mayflower's voyage to North America
Plymouth, England
Smeaton's Tower
Plymouth, England
Cherub Inn
Dartmouth, Devon, England

View of Kingswear from Dartmouth
Devon, England

Train from Greenway (Agatha Christie's home)
Kingswear, Devon

Ferry from Dartmouth to Kingswear
Devon, England

Dartmouth
Interior of Dartmouth Castle

Dartmouth Castle

St. Petrox Church and Cemetery
Dartmouth, Devon

We continued our journey east along the southern coast, stopping for a night in the New Forest to break the drive up a bit.  We stayed at Master Builders Hotel in Bucklers Hard and continued on our way towards Rye the next morning.  We stopped in Portsmouth Historic Docks to visit HMS Victory.  It would have been fun to spend more time there, but we had dinner reservations in Rye.  In the afternoon we got stuck in a pretty bad traffic jam which was caused by an accident on the other side of the road.  We still made time to stop at the Seven Sisters (white cliffs) although we only stayed long enough to take a few pictures.  We arrived in time to check in to Jeakes House and to get to the Tuscan Kitchen for dinner.  We are glad we did because the food was delicious.  

Free roaming horses on the road through the New Forest


HMS Victory - Admiral Nelson's Flagship
Portsmouth Historic Dockyards

Admiral Nelson's state room on the HMS Victory
Portsmouth Historic Dockyards

Cannon on the HMS Victory
Portsmouth Historic Dockyards

HMS Victory
Portsmouth Historic Dockyards


Seven Sisters Cliffs
Eastbourne, England

Seven Sisters Cliffs
Eastbourne, England

We only had one full day in Rye and we spent it by driving to Canterbury.  We explored in the morning and then met friends, Trevor, Cherry, and their dog Sammy at a pub for Sunday roast.  We intended to explore Canterbury more in the afternoon, but we had such a delightful time visiting we ended up staying at the pub until almost 6:00.  We then head back to Rye for our last night in England.

The Old Weavers House
Canterbury, England

Streets of Canterbury

Gate to Canterbury Cathedral

Night scenes near our hotel
Rye, England

Jeakes House
Rye, England

Dining Room at Jeakes House
Rye, England
Celina in the pub at Mermaid Inn
Rye, England

In the morning, we packed everything in preparation for our flight home and headed off towards Gatwick.  Along the way we stopped in Battle which is the site of the 1066 battle between William the Conqueror and King Harold of England.  That battle was a major turning point in English history - the end of the Anglo-Saxon era and the beginning of the Norman.  
Gate House at Battle Abbey
Battle, England
We arrived at Gatwick with plenty of time to grab one last bite and brew at the airport pub.  We had a good flight back to Boston where we spent the night at the Park n’Fly hotel.  We picked up our car in the morning and headed home.  It was a wonderful trip.  There is so much more to see in England than just London.  I highly recommend visiting the English countryside.  




No comments:

Post a Comment